Windcamp proves its worth in Samford CP activation

Today I activated Samford Conservation Park VKFF-1639 once more in an attempt to secure four contacts to bring my total to ten. It would also be the first time I would use my new Windcamp LiPo battery.
Setting up my long wire antenna was interesting: I needed a heavy tree branch to act as an end support. The far end was supported by my squid pole.

It’s all about improvisation.

At the start of the activation, my internal Windcamp LiPo was putting out 12V which allowed me to operate at a full 5W. By the time I had made four contacts, I had been operating solidly for an hour and seven minutes. The voltage on the display was now reading 11.8V.

I am more than happy with that.

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New battery power for my FT-817

I have long wanted/needed to upgrade my battery power for my Yaesu FT-817. The prompt came when the internal battery died. My choice was the kit put out by Windcamp; a 3000mAh internal LiPo battery and new battery compartment lid for the radio that comes fitted with a PCB and charging circuitry that allows the supplied mains charger to charge the battery while inside the radio.

The parcel arrived from China beautifully packed. The battery and the new replacement lid came packaged in very nice plastic cases, which, together with the instructions and charger, all fitted into a compact cardboard box for shipping.

The contents of the parcel.

After extracting the individual components from their packaging, it was time to think about installing the battery into the radio.

It is a tight fit but the components plugged together as intended. Note the PCB on the underside of the new lid.

When the battery and associated wiring was all nice and snugly fitted, I popped the lid closed and got ready to charge the new LiPo battery.

The new lid in place and ready for charging.

The charger has a double-coloured LED to indicate the state of the charge: red for charging and green for a completed charge. The initial charge takes around 5 hours to accomplish.

According to the supplied documentation, the rated voltage of the battery is 11.1V, with the output voltage range stated as between 9 and 12.6V. The maximum output current is 4A.

Now to test it in the field.

Another Power Distribution Board

I decided it would be nice to have a power distribution board made of wood and sporting Anderson Power Pole connectors on the bench. The PCB and power poles were sourced from SotaBeams in the UK. This is what I came up with.

The connectors have been loaded onto a PCB, a nice piece of dark wood has a dado routered and the back panel is cut to size.

I drilled and cut the back panel to fit the PCB.

Cutting the back panel.

Next, the PCB was pushed into place.

The gaps between the connectors was filled with small off cuts of wood.

Next, I cut a second piece of timber to use as a back panel to the backing board. This will protect the PCB as current will be flowing through the solder joints.

I used a router as a crude milling machine to make a recess on a backing board to cover the PCB from the rear.

Once that had been done it was just a matter of screwing the two backing boards together and dropping the completed assembly into the base. This was also screwed into position. A coat of protective varnish was then applied.

All done.

My new power distribution board ready to be pressed into service.

Activating Mt Cotton VK4/SE-115

This was one summit I have wanted to activate for quite some time, partly due its proximity and partly due to the excellent Sirromet Winery nearby. So when Sunday 30 April dawned with beautiful clear skies, I knew it was time. My wife decided this would also make an excellent day out.

The drive to the base of the summit took about 40 minutes. We parked at the bottom in a designated car park and headed for the gate that heralded the beginning of the path up.

This is the beginning of the path up to the summit.

Fortunately the path up is sealed, which made walking up easier, even though it was rather steep at times.

It took us 22 minutes to walk up to the summit.

Once at the top it was simply a matter of seeking out the best operating position. This was important as there are a couple of communication towers there and I didn’t want interference.

The going was tough at times.

I found a suitable spot among a pile of rocks, so I erected the long wire antenna on my squid pole, and connected it up to my Elecraft KX1. It tuned up beautifully on 20m and 40m. For power I use six internal AA 1.5v batteries that give me between 1 and 2 watts output to play with.

It was quite comfortable, really.

I put out my first call on 20m and within seconds was answered by VK3CAT in Victoria. Not bad for 2 watts. I then switched to 40m (only 1 watt) and worked VK2NP, VK2BJT and VK4TJ.

I find the Pico Paddle a wonderful device to use with the KX1. It is magnetically held in place on the tin plate on my home brewed QSO board.

That was sufficient for the activation to count, so it was time to pack up and head off down and to lunch at Sirromet.

Preparing my Buddistick for the next SOTA activation.

On Sunday 2 August 2015 we are having a SOTA party in the ACT. As many of us as possible will be activating as many summits as possible, especially seeing there is a 10m and 6m challenge on at present.

So to add to the fun, I decided to see what I can do on 10m. This means I won’t be using my trusty Elecraft KX1 but my Yaesu FT817. The Buddistick will still be my antenna of choice.

Seeing I haven’t used the Buddistick on 10m before, I thought I’d better tune it up beforehand so as not to waste too much time on location.

I headed out to my usual spot behind the Australian War Memorial and set up my portable station, using 28.059 as the frequency. All I then had to do was to connect up a spare connector onto the coil for a tap, and sort out the correct length of wire for the counterpoise.

I connected up my lightweight antenna tuning unit to confirm that I had a good 50 ohm match. This ATU is the Hendricks BLT tuner.

I found the best tap to be at turn 2 and a third of a turn to the left on the main coil, with about 8 turns of counterpoise wire let out. That’s about 8 feet. At this setting, the little LED on the tuner went out, so that’s about as good a match as can be had.

The blue cap is the tap for 10m.

The blue cap is the tap for 10m.

Luckily I spent the time sorting out the tuning as I also found the power plug to be broken. The rig was actually working off the internal battery and not my 12V gel cell. So it was back to my apartment to make hasty repairs. Fortunately I had a spare power lead, one that had a cigarette lighter plug on the end, so I was able to cut that off and crimp on spade connectors. This is a temporary fix as my reverse polarity protection that was attached to the original lead now no longer works, so it’ll be a matter of double checking before connecting up the power. Not having a soldering iron here in Canberra is a nuisance, but such is life.

Upgrading my Elecraft KX1

The time has come to upgrade my Elecraft KX1. To make this little rig even more versatile, I will be adding an in-built ATU. This comes in kit form and needs to be assembled and installed into the rig.

I will also be adding the custom paddle as it will mean I no longer need to take a separate key or paddle with me when going portable.  This too comes in kit form.

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Curing RFI in the shack

I have been suffering from the dreaded RFI in the shack. I knew this because every time I keyed the transmitter, my digital clock would flash and my computer would play up or even shut down. Something had to be done.

After much talk with locals VK4CBW Wallace and VK4ZW Ray, I decided to get back to basics and start from scratch. I rebuilt the earthing system to ensure the connections were good, I removed the two external speakers I had rigged up and I removed the antenna switch that wasn’t grounded. This didn’t cure the problem.

Then I installed a 4:1 balun (thanks Wallace) and removed my G5RV and replaced it with a 20-10m dipole that I had shipped in from the US. Much better but still some RFI on one or two bands.

I then made a current choke by winding five turns of coax in a circle 8 inches in diameter at the feed point to the balun, which I mounted just outside the window to the shack where the coax enters. This did the trick.

The choke and LDG 4:1 balun outside the window of the shack.